CABINET: A basic part of the manufactured-fiber spinning machine where, in dry spinning, the filaments become solidified by solvent evaporation and, in melt spinning, the filaments are solidified by cooling.
CABLED YARN: A yarn formed by twisting together two or more plied yarns.
CABLE STITCH: A knit effect produced by crossing a group of stitches over a neighboring stitch group.



CABLE TWIST: A construction of thread, yarn, cord, or rope in which each successive twist is in the direction opposite the preceding twists; i.e., and S/Z/S or Z/S/Z construction.

CALENDER: A machine used in finishing to impart a variety of surface effects to fabrics. A calender essentially consists of two or more heavy rollers, sometimes heated, through which the fabric passes under heavy pressure.

CALENDER COATING: See COATING.

CALENDERING: A mechanical finishing process for fabrics to produce special effects, such as high luster, glazing, moiré, and embossed effects. In this operation, the fabric is passed between heated rolls under pressure.

CALENDERING ROLLS: 1. The main cylinders on a calender. 2. Smooth or fluted rolls used on carious fiber-processing machines such as pickers and cards to compress the lap or sliver as it passes between them.
CALICO: A plain, closely woven, inexpensive cloth, usually cotton or a cotton/manufactured fiber blend, characteristically having figured patterns on a white or contrasting background. Calico is typically used for aprons, dresses, and quilts.
CALORIMETRY: The process of measuring quantities of absorbed or evolved heat, often used to determine specific heat.
CAM: A rotating or sliding piece or projection used to impart timed or periodic motion to other parts of a machine. It is used chiefly as a controlling or timing element in machines rather than as part of a power transmission mechanism. Cams are particularly important in both knitting and weaving machinery.
CAMBRIC: A soft, white, closely woven, cotton or cotton blend fabric that has been calendered on the right side to give it a slight gloss. Cambric is used extensively for handkerchiefs.
CAN: 1. A cylindrical container, about 3 feet high and 10 to 12 inches in diameter, that is used to collect sliver delivered by a card, drawing frame, etc. 2. See DRYING CYLINDERS.
CANDLE FILTER: A small filter interposed between the spinning pump and spinning jet to effect final filtration of the spinning solution prior to extrusion.
CANDLE WATER TEMPERATURE: The temperature of the water surrounding the candle filter or within the heating jacket during fiber extrusion.
CANDLEWICK FABRIC: An unbleached muslin base fabric used to produce a chenille-like fabric by applying candlewick (heavy-plied yarn) loops and cutting the loops to give a fuzzy effect.
CANTON FLANNEL: A heavy cotton or cotton blend material with a twilled face and a napped back. The fabric’s strength, warmth, and absorbance make it ideal for interlinings and sleeping garments.
CANVAS: See DUCK.
CAPACITANCE: The measure of the ability of a nonconductor to store electrical energy by means of the potential difference across the surfaces of the nonconductor.
CAPROLACTAM: A white, crystalline, cyclic amide (C6H11NO) which yields £`-amino-caproic acid on hydrolysis and is used as a raw material in the manufacture of nylon 6.
CAP SPINNING: A system of spinning employing a stationary, highly polished metal cap just large enough to fit over the take-up bobbin, which revolves at a high rate of speed. The cap controls the build and imparts sufficient tension to the yarn for winding. The yarn is twisted and wound onto packages simultaneously.

CARBON-ARC LAMP: A type of fading lamp which utilizes an arc between two carbon electrodes as the source of radiation.

CARBON FIBER: A high-tensile fiber or whisker made by heating rayon or polyacrylonitrile fibers or petroleum residues to appropriate temperatures. Fibers may be 7 to 8 microns in diameter and are more that 90% carbonized.

CARBONIZING: A chemical process for eliminating cellulosic material from wool or other animal fibers. The material is reacted with sulfuric acid or hydrogen chloride gas followed by heating. When the material is dry, the carbonized cellulose material is dust-like and can be removed.

CARBOXYL END GROUP: The chain-terminating (-COOH) group found in polyamide and polyester
CARBOXYMETHYL CELLULOSE: An acid ether derivative of cellulose formed by the reaction of alkali cellulose with chloroacetic acid. The sodium salt of this compound is commonly used as a stabilizer or an emulsifier.
CARD: A machine used in the manufacture of staple yards. Its functions are to separate, align, and deliver the fibers in a sliver form and to remove impurities. The machine consists of a series of rolls, the surfaces of which are covered with many projecting wired or metal teeth. Short staple systems employ flat strips covered with card clothing rather that small rolls. (Also see FLAT CARD.)
CARD CHOKING: See CYLINDER LOADING.
CARD CLOTHING: The material used to cover the working surfaces of the card, i.e., cylinder and rolls or flats. The clothing consists of either wire teeth set in a foundation fabric or rubber, or narrow serrated metal flutes which are spirally arranged around the roll. The metallic wire has the appearance of band-saw blade.
CARD CONVERSION EFFICIENCY: The efficiency of the carding process, expressed as a percentage obtained from ratio of sliver output to staple input.
CARDED YARN: A cotton yarn that has been carded but not combed. Carded yarns contain a wider range of fiber lengths and, as a result, are not as uniform or as strong as combed yarns. They are considerably cheaper and are used in medium and course counts.
CARDIGAN: 1. A modification of the rib-knitting stitch to allow tucking on one (half cardigan) or both(full cardigan) sets of needles. 2. A sweater that buttons down the front.
CARDIGAN: 1. A modification of the rib-knitting stitch to allow tucking on one (half cardigan) or both(full cardigan) sets of needles. 2. A sweater that buttons down the front.
CARDING: A process in the manufacture of spun yarns whereby the staple is opened, cleaned, aligned, and formed into a continuous, untwisted strand called a sliver.
CARE LABEL: The label that gives directions for cleaning, ironing, and otherwise maintaining a fabric of fiber product.
CARPET BACKING: A primary backing through which the carpet tufts are inserted is always required for tufted carpets. The backing is usually made of woven jute or nonwoven manufactured fiber fabrics. A secondary backing, again made of jute or manufactured fibers, is
normally added at the latex backcoating stage. Carpet backings are an important end use for nonwoven fabrics.
CARPETS: Heavy functional and ornamental floor coverings consisting of pile yarns or fibers and a backing system. They may be tufted or woven. (Also see TUFTED CARPET.)
CARPET UNDERLAY: A separate fabric which is used to provide cushioning for carpet. Carpet underlays are made of hair and jute, sponge rubber, bonded urethane or foamed urethane.
CARRIER: 1. A product added to a dyebath to promote the dyeing of hydrophobic manufactured fibers and characterized by affinity for, and ability to swell, the fiber. 2. A moving holder for a package of yarn used on a braiding machine. 3. A term sometimes used to describe the tube or bobbin on which yarn is wound.
CARRIERLESS DYEING VARIANTS: Polymers that have been modified to increase their dyeability. Fibers and fabrics made from these polymers can be dyed at the boil without the use of carriers.
CASEMENT CLOTH: A general term applied to lightweight, sheer fabrics used for curtains and for screening purposes and as a backing for heavy drapery fabrics of the decorative type. This type of fabric is sometimes made in small fancy weaves for dresswear.
CASHMERE: The extremely soft hair of the Cashmere goat. Cashmere is often blended with sheep’s wool in fabrics.
CAST COATING: See COATING.
CATALYST: A chemical that accelerates a reaction. The catalyst is not part of the reaction but increases the rate at which it takes place.
CATERPILLAR: A large slub formed in a combination or plied yarn as a result of one of the ends breaking and sliding or skinning back along the other yarn.
CAT EYE: See PINHOLE.
CATION: A positively charged ion.
CATIONIC DYEABLE VARIANTS: Polymers modified chemically to make them receptive to cationic dyes.
CATIONIC DYES: See DYES, Basic Dyes.
CAUSTIC SODA: The common name for sodium hydroxide.
CALAVRY TWILL: A pronounced, raised cord on a 63-degree twill weave characterizes this rugged cloth usually made from wool or wool blend yarns.
CELANESE ACETATE: See ACETATE FIBER.
CELLOPHANE: A generic term for regenerated cellulose film, which is used primarily for packaging. The film is transparent and may be dyed in many colors or coated to render it moisture proof or heat-sealable.
CELLULOSE: A carbohydrate which is the chief component of the cell walls of plants. Cellulose is found in wood and in cotton, linen, jute, hemp, and all of the bast, leaf, and stem fibers. It is a basic raw material in the manufacture of rayon, acetate, and triacetate fibers.
CELLULOSIC FIBER: A fiber composed of, or derived from, cellulose. Examples are cotton (cellulose), rayon (regenerated cellulose), acetate (cellulose acetate), and triacetate (cellulose triacetate).
CENTERING MARK: See CLIP MARK
CENTER LOOP: See KINK.
CENTRIFUGAL POT: See POT SPINNING.
CENTRIFUGE: A machine that employs centrifugal force to remove excess liquid from fabrics. In general, centrifuges are also used to separate materials of different densities.
CERAMIC FIBER: An aluminum silicate fiber made by heating aluminum fluoride at 1000- 1200¢XC with silica and water vapor. The crystals, or “whiskers,” obtained are up to 1 cm long and have high strength. Ceramic fibers are used in reinforced plastics.
CHAFED END: A warp end that has been abraded during processing. It generally appears as a dull yarn often containing broken filaments.
CHAFE MARK: See ABRASION MARK.
CHAFER FABRIC: A fabric, coated with unvulcanized rubber, that is wrapped around the bead section of the tire before vulcanization of the complete tire. The purpose of the chafer fabric is to maintain an abrasion-resistant later of rubber in contact with the wheel on which the tire is mounted.
CHAIN BINDERS: Yarns running in the warp direction on the back of a woven carpet which hold construction yarns together.
CHAIN DYEING: See DYEING.
CHALKINESS: 1. A dull, whitened appearance sometimes associated with certain extra-dull colors. 2. A fillingwise fabric defect observed as bands varying luster or sheen.
CHALLIS: A very soft, lightweight, plain-weave fabric, usually printed with a delicate floral pattern. The name is derived from the Anglo-Indian term “shalee” meaning soft.
CHAMBRAY: 1. A plain woven-spun fabric, almost square (i.e., 80 x 76), with a colored warp and a white filling. Lightweight chambrays are used for shirts, dresses, and children’s clothes. 2. A similar but heavier fabric of carded yam, used for work clothing.
CHAMELEON: A variable multicolored effect achieved by using warp yarns of one color and two filling yarns of different colors in each shed. It is sometimes used in taffeta, faille, or poplin made from silk or manufactured filament yarns.
CHANGE IN FILLING: See MIXED END or FILLING.
CHANGE INLINGTH ON UNTWISTING: The increase or decrease in length measured when a specimen is untwisted. The change is expressed as the percentage extension or contraction of the nominal gauge length of the specimen, i.e., specimen length prior to untwisting.
CHAR LENGTH: In flammability testing, the distance from the edge of the sample exposed to the flame to the upper edge of the charred or void area.
CHEESE: A cylindrical package of yarn wound on a flangeless tube.
CHEESECLOTH: A low-count, plain weave, soft cotton or cotton blend cloth also known as gauze.
CHELATING AGENT: A compound that will inactivate a metallic ion by making it an integral part of an inner ring structure. The metal is attached by coordinate links to two or more nonmetal atoms in the same molecule.
CHEMICAL CRIMPING: A crinkled or puckered effect in fabric obtained by printing sodium hydroxide onto the goods in a planned design. When the material is washed, the part to which the paste has been applied will shrink and cause untreated areas to pucker. The same effect is obtained with a caustic resist print and a sodium hydroxide bath.
CHEMICAL FIBER: See MANUFACTURED FIBER.
CHEMICAL FINISHING: Processes in which additives are applied to change the aesthetic and functional properties of a material. Examples are the application of antioxidants, flameretardant, wetting agents, and stain and water repellents.
CHEMICAL STABILITY: Degree of resistance of a material to chemicals, such as acids, bases, solvents, oils, and oxidizing agents, and to chemical reactions, including those catalyzed by light.
CHENILLE: 1. A yarn with a fuzzy pile protruding from all sides, cut from a woven chenille weft fabric. Chenille yarns are made from all fibers, and they are used as filling in fabrics and for embroidery, fringes, and tassels. 2. Fabric woven with chenille yarn. (Also see TUFTED FABRIC.)
CHEVIOT: A rugged tweed made from uneven yarn, this fabric usually has a rather harsh hand.
CHEVRON: A broad term applied to prints in zigzag stripes or to herringbone weaves.
CHIFFON: A plain weave, lightweight, sheer, transparent fabric made from fine, highly twisted yarns. It is usually a square fabric, i.e., having approximately the same number of ends and picks and the same count in both warp and filling.
CHINCHILLA CLOTH: A heavy, twill weave, filling-pile fabric with a napped surface that is rolled into little tufts or nubs. The material is frequently double faced with a knitted or woven,plain or fancy back. Chinchilla cloth is used primarily in coats. The term is also used to refer to a knitted woolen fabric having a napped surface.
CHINO: A cotton or cotton blend twill used by armies throughout the world for summer-weight uniforms. Chino is frequently dyed khaki.
CHINTZ: A glazed fabric produced by friction calendering. Unglazed chintz is called cretonne.
CHIP: 1. The form of polymer feedstock used in fiber production. (Also see FLAKE.) 2. The feedstock for a pulp digestor. 3. A defect in a nonwoven fabric.
CHLORINE RETENTION: A characteristic of several resins and textile finishes whereby they retain some of the chlorine from bleach. On heating of the goods, the chlorine forms hydrochloric acid, causing tendering of the cloth. This is especially true of certain wrinkle resistant finishes for cotton and rayon.
CHOKED COILER: A condition in carding or drawing in which sliver is either puffy, badly condensed, or very uneven, leading to overloading of the coiler trumpets and causing work stoppage.
CHOKED FLYERS: A situation in which roving will not pass through the flyer channels because of heavy or cockled conditions caused by such factors as uneven drafting, waste, overcut fibers, and improper finish.
CHROMATICITY: The quality of color expressed as a function of wavelength and purity.
CHROMATOGRAPHY: The generic name of a group of processes for separating and analyzing mixtures of chemical compounds. The separation depends on the redistribution of molecules of the mixture between phases, one of which is thin, often reaching molecular dimensions. For this reason, molecular size and shape are important in the separation, and extremely subtle separations are possible.
CHUTE-FEED SYSTEM: Pneumatic fiber transport system used in linking textile processing equipment or operations, especially opening, blending, and carding.
CIRCULAR-KNIT FABRIC: A tubular weft-knit fabric made of a circular-knitting machine.
CIRCULAR KNITTING: See KNITTING.
CIRÉ: A brilliant patent leather effect produced by application of wax, heat, and pressure.
CLAMPS: The parts of a testing machine that are used to hold a specimen while it is subjected to force. (Also called jaws.)
CLARITY: 1. In general, the optical property of being clear. 2. In acetate manufacture, a measure of the appearance of dope solutions, indicating the quality of the acetylation mixture. 3. In printing, the sharpness or definition of a print pattern.
CLEARING: The treatment of printed fabrics with a chemical solution to improve the appearance of the whites. In many cases the treatment also brightens the printed areas. (Also see REDUCTION CLEARING.)
CLIPMARK: Visible deformation of selvage due to pressure from a tenter clip.
CLO: A unit of thermal resistance. The insulation needed to keep an individual producing heat at the rate of 58W/m2 comfortable of 21¢XC air temperature with air movement of 0.1 m/s. One clo is roughly equal to the insulation value of typical indoor clothing.
CLOQUÉ FABRIC: From the French term for blistered, it refers to any fabric whose surface exhibits an irregularly raises blister effect.
CLOTH: A generic term embracing all textile fabrics and felts. Cloth may be formed of any textile fiber, wire, or other material, and it includes any pliant fabric woven, knit, felted, needled, sewn, or otherwise formed.
CLOUDY WEB: An uneven or irregular web from the doffer of a card.
CLUMPS: In nonwoven fabrics, an irregularly shaped grouping of fibers caused by insufficient fiber separation.
COACERVATION: The collection of colloidal particles into droplets held together by electrostatic attraction. This term for the equilibrium state of colloidal systems was introduced in 1929.
COAGULATION: The precipitation of particles from a suspension in a liquid, usually resulting in formation of a gel.
COAGULATION BATH: A liquid bath that serves to harden viscous polymer strands into solid fibers after extrusion through a spinneret. Used in wet spinning processes such as in rayon or acrylic fiber manufacture.
COALESCED FILAMENTS: Filaments stuck together by design or accident during the extrusion process.
COALESCENCE: Merging of two or more substances into a larger substance, i.e., coalesced filaments.
COARSE END: See COARSE THREAD.
COARSE FILLING: See COARSE THREAD.
COARSE PICK: See COARSE THREAD.
COARSE THREAD: A yarn larger in diameter than other yarns being used in the fabric.
COATED FABRIC: A fabric to which a substance such as lacquer, plastic, resin, rubber, or varnish has been applied in firmly adhering layers to provide certain properties, such as water impermeability.